- Corn Snake Care -
Corn snakes are a fairly small, docile and easy to keep snakes which are perfect for first time snake owners as well as the more experienced. They usually grow to around four to six feet in length and, for the most part, are easy to handle and rarely have trouble feeding.
That said, corn snakes do still have care requirements to ensure they have a long, healthy life, which will also give the greatest enjoyment to the owners. As corns can live in excess of 20 years, they are a long term commitment and research on correct care must always be carried out.
This care guide will give an overview on the essentials for looking after these beautiful and character filled animals in all aspects of care.
That said, corn snakes do still have care requirements to ensure they have a long, healthy life, which will also give the greatest enjoyment to the owners. As corns can live in excess of 20 years, they are a long term commitment and research on correct care must always be carried out.
This care guide will give an overview on the essentials for looking after these beautiful and character filled animals in all aspects of care.
- Feeding -
Corn snakes are fed on mice which need to be the correct size depending on the size of the snake. The rule is generally that the prey should be approximately one and a half times the width of their head. Frozen mice are available from most pet stores and many places online. The mice should be defrosted and allowed to reach room temperature before being offered. I often defrost mine inside a bag sitting in a bowl of warm water.
Hatchling snakes are usually fed every five to six days, increasing to every seven to fourteen days as an adult. Larger corns may take two mice, young rats, gerbils or other small rodents.
Corn snakes may also be fed chicks or fertilised quail eggs to provide variation but they should not be used as the staple as they do not contain the essential nutrients that rodents have.
I move my snakes to a separate tub for feeding to prevent them from ingesting substrate which can lead to impaction, sickness and even death of the snake. Apart from putting the snake back into it’s enclosure, it is best not to handle the snake for 48 hours after a feed as this may cause them to regurgitate the meal.
Live food should not be fed as they can bite and injure the snake and wild-caught rodents should never be used as they can carry parasites and illnesses.
Hatchling snakes are usually fed every five to six days, increasing to every seven to fourteen days as an adult. Larger corns may take two mice, young rats, gerbils or other small rodents.
Corn snakes may also be fed chicks or fertilised quail eggs to provide variation but they should not be used as the staple as they do not contain the essential nutrients that rodents have.
I move my snakes to a separate tub for feeding to prevent them from ingesting substrate which can lead to impaction, sickness and even death of the snake. Apart from putting the snake back into it’s enclosure, it is best not to handle the snake for 48 hours after a feed as this may cause them to regurgitate the meal.
Live food should not be fed as they can bite and injure the snake and wild-caught rodents should never be used as they can carry parasites and illnesses.
- Shedding -
Several times a year (younger snakes will shed more frequently) snakes will shed the outer layer of their skin. Before a shed, the colour will become duller and the eyes will turn blue-grey. It is not unusual for a corn snake to refuse a feed during this period or be more shy/aggressive than usual. This is often referred to as the snake being “in blue” due to the blue grey eyes and skin tint. The blue membrane over the snakes’ eyes obscures their vision so they will naturally feel more vulnerable at this time.
There are a few things that can help a corn with its shedding which mainly revolve around humidity. Providing a heavy large bowl of water, allowing the snake to soak, or a hide with sphagnum moss can help the snake shed.
When shedding, the snake will rub its head on something to loosen the skin, then crawl its way out of the skin, often around objects like the water bowl or plastic plants. After shedding, remove the skin and check that all the skin has been shed, especially the eye caps and tail tips and remove any retained shed with a warm wet sponge. If this does not work, a bath then allowing the snake to slide through a towel should help, or some tweezers can be used to carefully remove the most stubborn areas.
There are a few things that can help a corn with its shedding which mainly revolve around humidity. Providing a heavy large bowl of water, allowing the snake to soak, or a hide with sphagnum moss can help the snake shed.
When shedding, the snake will rub its head on something to loosen the skin, then crawl its way out of the skin, often around objects like the water bowl or plastic plants. After shedding, remove the skin and check that all the skin has been shed, especially the eye caps and tail tips and remove any retained shed with a warm wet sponge. If this does not work, a bath then allowing the snake to slide through a towel should help, or some tweezers can be used to carefully remove the most stubborn areas.
- Water -
Corn Snakes will need fresh water daily in a large, heavy or untippable bowl as they will also sit and bathe in the water (especially during shedding times as it helps with the process). They will often defecate in the bowl – this will need cleaning as soon as possible
- Handling -
Corn snakes are generally calm and docile snakes that are easy to handle and perfect for first time snake owners. It is rare that a corn snake will attempt to bite, and a frightened corn is more likely to hide than to strike. Sometimes a threatened corn may rattle its tail, but carry on with handling until they get used to it and settle down.
Most corn snakes will appreciate time outside the vivarium for exercise with some preferring more or less time out. When handling, try to support the snake’s whole body and keep an eye on where they go; it only takes a moment for a corn snake to start disappearing down the back of the sofa or sneaking off some other way.
Most corn snakes will appreciate time outside the vivarium for exercise with some preferring more or less time out. When handling, try to support the snake’s whole body and keep an eye on where they go; it only takes a moment for a corn snake to start disappearing down the back of the sofa or sneaking off some other way.
- Housing -
The space for the snake to live does not need to be overly large as corns are not hugely active and the general rule is to have a set up where the length and width together equal the snake length. So a 3ft long snake would do fine in a 2ft x 1ft space.
Younger or hatchling corn snakes will need smaller housing, as providing too large an enclosure can stress the snake and often they will stop feeding as a result. As the snake grows, they will need to have the enclosure size upgraded as they grow larger.
Aquariums with tight fitting lids, wooden vivariums and plastic storage boxes make good housing solutions for corn snakes, but bear in mind that corn snakes are notorious escape artists and will easily push up a loose lid or wiggle out of a loose fitting glass door. Good sized storage boxes for adult corns are the 33l or 50l Really Useful Boxes (often called RUBs for short) which both have the same dimensions but with the 50l being taller.
As corns only defecate rarely, giving spot cleanings regularly will mean that the whole vivarium will only need a full clean out about once a month. When cleaning, use either a very weak disinfectant (something safe for baby bottles) or a reptile cleaner. Make sure the equipment is fully dry before replacing it in the enclosure.
Younger or hatchling corn snakes will need smaller housing, as providing too large an enclosure can stress the snake and often they will stop feeding as a result. As the snake grows, they will need to have the enclosure size upgraded as they grow larger.
Aquariums with tight fitting lids, wooden vivariums and plastic storage boxes make good housing solutions for corn snakes, but bear in mind that corn snakes are notorious escape artists and will easily push up a loose lid or wiggle out of a loose fitting glass door. Good sized storage boxes for adult corns are the 33l or 50l Really Useful Boxes (often called RUBs for short) which both have the same dimensions but with the 50l being taller.
As corns only defecate rarely, giving spot cleanings regularly will mean that the whole vivarium will only need a full clean out about once a month. When cleaning, use either a very weak disinfectant (something safe for baby bottles) or a reptile cleaner. Make sure the equipment is fully dry before replacing it in the enclosure.
- Temperature -
As cold-blooded animals, corn snakes rely on their environment to regulate their body temperature. In the wild, snakes will bask in a sunny place to warm up, and move away to cool down. This needs to be mimicked in the enclosure. A heat mat attached to a thermostat (the stat is very important to prevent overheating) is a good way of providing heat. The mat should not cover any more than half of the enclosure to allow the corn snake to thermo-regulate (control its body temperature by moving into a warmer/cooler area.)
A thermometer is also useful to check the temperature of the warm and cool ends which should be around 30°C and 21°C respectively.
A thermometer is also useful to check the temperature of the warm and cool ends which should be around 30°C and 21°C respectively.
- Substrate -
There are a few different substrates which are suitable for corns, some of which are:
· Newspaper: Inks from printed newspapers can be harmful to snakes, but unprinted sheets can be purchased very cheaply and can be quite absorbent. Paper towels can also be added to help with absorbency if required. Personally, I only use newspaper for snakes in quarantine or if they had injuries, as I prefer a substrate which the snake can tunnel through and looks a little more natural.
· Aspen: Aspen wood shavings are more aesthetically pleasing, natural looking and allow the corn snake to burrow in the substrate. When the snake defecates, the soiled area can be scooped out, with a full substrate change only about once a month. It is important that dirty substrate is removed as soon as possible to prevent it from becoming a breeding area for bacteria. If using aspen the corn snake will need to be fed in a separate feeding tub or there is a risk of it ingesting the substrate and becoming impacted. Aspen is widely available from pet stores and online and is not expensive unless you have many snakes.
· Astroturf: This is probably the cheapest substrate alternative as it can be washed and re-used countless times. It can also be very naturalistic and be cut to the desired size. The main issue is absorbency – astroturf will not absorb any mess from the snake, so any wetness will simply sit in puddles.
There are a few substrates which should NOT be used even though some reptile/pet stores may recommend them for corn snakes at times:
· Cedar shavings: Cedar and redwood shavings are very toxic to small animals and should not be used for either the snake or its prey (if you breed your own food). It is also important that snake housing is also not constructed from or uses cedar or redwood inside as decorations
· Orchid bark/coco bark: Orchid bark should really only be used for snakes and animals who require higher humidity levels. As corns can get respiratory infections in high humidity, this substrate is not advised for corns.
· Sand: Sand tends to loose heat and can also get stuck in corn snake scales and is generally uncomfortable for the snake
· Newspaper: Inks from printed newspapers can be harmful to snakes, but unprinted sheets can be purchased very cheaply and can be quite absorbent. Paper towels can also be added to help with absorbency if required. Personally, I only use newspaper for snakes in quarantine or if they had injuries, as I prefer a substrate which the snake can tunnel through and looks a little more natural.
· Aspen: Aspen wood shavings are more aesthetically pleasing, natural looking and allow the corn snake to burrow in the substrate. When the snake defecates, the soiled area can be scooped out, with a full substrate change only about once a month. It is important that dirty substrate is removed as soon as possible to prevent it from becoming a breeding area for bacteria. If using aspen the corn snake will need to be fed in a separate feeding tub or there is a risk of it ingesting the substrate and becoming impacted. Aspen is widely available from pet stores and online and is not expensive unless you have many snakes.
· Astroturf: This is probably the cheapest substrate alternative as it can be washed and re-used countless times. It can also be very naturalistic and be cut to the desired size. The main issue is absorbency – astroturf will not absorb any mess from the snake, so any wetness will simply sit in puddles.
There are a few substrates which should NOT be used even though some reptile/pet stores may recommend them for corn snakes at times:
· Cedar shavings: Cedar and redwood shavings are very toxic to small animals and should not be used for either the snake or its prey (if you breed your own food). It is also important that snake housing is also not constructed from or uses cedar or redwood inside as decorations
· Orchid bark/coco bark: Orchid bark should really only be used for snakes and animals who require higher humidity levels. As corns can get respiratory infections in high humidity, this substrate is not advised for corns.
· Sand: Sand tends to loose heat and can also get stuck in corn snake scales and is generally uncomfortable for the snake
- Hides and Decor -
Two hides will need to be supplied, one in the cool and one in the warm end of the vivarium to allow the snake to regulate its temperature. Hides can be anything, from cardboard boxes, toilet roll tubes and flower pots to specially made reptile hides. A hide should be the right size for the snake to curl up inside and not too large as the snake will not feel secure enough and may become stressed.
Corn snakes love to climb and can be inquisitive; when you have just cleaned or rearranged the enclosure, the corn will most likely emerge to have a look round. It is therefore a good idea to change the inside around every so often to provide a bit of stimulation for the snake. Silk or plastic plants, branches, cork bark and even cardboard boxes and toilet roll tubes can all provide and interesting area for the corn to explore as well as being able to create an attractive, naturalistic setup.
I also find that sometimes the snake will choose to curl up in the middle area of the enclosure as it feels comfortable in the middle temperature so I often make sure I have fake plants, branches or other décor running along the length of the enclosure so that the snake can choose any temperature gradient to sleep in – but this is preference opposed to a requirement.
Corn snakes love to climb and can be inquisitive; when you have just cleaned or rearranged the enclosure, the corn will most likely emerge to have a look round. It is therefore a good idea to change the inside around every so often to provide a bit of stimulation for the snake. Silk or plastic plants, branches, cork bark and even cardboard boxes and toilet roll tubes can all provide and interesting area for the corn to explore as well as being able to create an attractive, naturalistic setup.
I also find that sometimes the snake will choose to curl up in the middle area of the enclosure as it feels comfortable in the middle temperature so I often make sure I have fake plants, branches or other décor running along the length of the enclosure so that the snake can choose any temperature gradient to sleep in – but this is preference opposed to a requirement.
